Design nest boxes with clear and easy access to their interior. Bird houses need to be be cleaned and disinfected after the brooding season to be certain that parasites, their eggs and larvae are completely eliminated.
For increased ventilation in warmer climates, floor and side panel corner gaps can be larger than plans specify.
Some woodworkers may prefer to drill strategically located holes for ventilation and leave floor panels whole.
Use a hand held screwdriver to assemble work pieces. This allows the crafts person to feel and better judge appropriate hole sizes and snugness to prevent stripping and splitting wood.
You may prefer Side Opening Doors instead of hinged roof doors, especially for the larger nest boxes.
Common Merganser Nest Box
Make a 10″ by 10″ floor (inside dimensions) and a 33″ floor to ceiling height (inside front).
Cut a 5″ wide by 5″ square entrance opening with rounded corners located 30″ above the floor (to top of opening).
Drill or cut ventilation openings in the floor and under the roof.
Side Opening Doors may be better than hinged roof doors for duck houses and possibly more convenient and safer for other birdhouses as well.
Always use corrosion resistant screws and hardware.
Drill countersunk pilot holes in primary work pieces. Drill regular pilot holes in secondary work pieces. This reduces a tendency for wood to split. It makes for easy assembly in minutes with a power or hand held screwdriver.


Plywood consists of glued, thin laminated panels. They are strong but prone to deterioration from moisture even when surfaces and edges are sealed with paint.
Some birders attach wire mesh on the inside front panel to help ducklings climb out of the box. If you do this, bend the sharp needle ends over and fold behind. It may be better to use plastic poultry or snow fencing, or similar material.
Place 3″ to 4″ of wood chips (not saw dust) in the boxes.
Remove everything from the box and clean well after the brood rearing season is past. Do not mount duck boxes in trees. Not on, under or too close to trees where squirrels can leap on to boxes. Predation from snakes, raccoons and a number of other mammals and birds is a horrible thing. You can prevent this.
Common Merganser Nest Box
Make a 10″ by 10″ floor (inside dimensions) and a 33″ floor to ceiling height (inside front).
Cut a 5″ wide by 5″ square entrance opening with rounded corners located 30″ above the floor (to top of opening).
Drill or cut ventilation openings in the floor and under the roof.
Side Opening Doors may be better than hinged roof doors for duck houses and possibly more convenient and safer for other birdhouses as well.
Always use corrosion resistant screws and hardware.
Drill countersunk pilot holes in primary work pieces. Drill regular pilot holes in secondary work pieces. This reduces a tendency for wood to split. It makes for easy assembly in minutes with a power or hand held screwdriver.


Plywood consists of glued, thin laminated panels. They are strong but prone to deterioration from moisture even when surfaces and edges are sealed with paint.
Some birders attach wire mesh on the inside front panel to help ducklings climb out of the box. If you do this, bend the sharp needle ends over and fold behind. It may be better to use plastic poultry or snow fencing, or similar material.
Fasten duck boxes firmly to metal (preferable) or to wood posts. Mount 4′ above water, 6′ if above ground, higher if it is likely to attract the curious. If above ground, locate near ponds and where vegetation provides cover for ducklings to travel to water. Always protect with 3′ wide cone predator guards around the post, under the box.
Place 3″ to 4″ of wood chips (not saw dust) in the boxes.
Remove everything from the box and clean well after the brood rearing season is past. Do not mount duck boxes in trees. Not on, under or too close to trees where squirrels can leap on to boxes. Predation from snakes, raccoons and a number of other mammals and birds is a horrible thing. You can prevent this.
Common Merganser Nest Box
Birds | Birdhouses | Plans | Home

Make a 10″ by 10″ floor (inside dimensions) and a 33″ floor to ceiling height (inside front).
Cut a 5″ wide by 5″ square entrance opening with rounded corners located 30″ above the floor (to top of opening).
Drill or cut ventilation openings in the floor and under the roof.

Always use corrosion resistant screws and hardware.
Drill countersunk pilot holes in primary work pieces. Drill regular pilot holes in secondary work pieces. This reduces a tendency for wood to split. It makes for easy assembly in minutes with a power or hand held screwdriver.
Plywood consists of glued, thin laminated panels. They are strong but prone to deterioration from moisture even when surfaces and edges are sealed with paint.
Some birders attach wire mesh on the inside front panel to help ducklings climb out of the box. If you do this, bend the sharp needle ends over and fold behind. It may be better to use plastic poultry or snow fencing, or similar material.
Fasten duck boxes firmly to metal (preferable) or to wood posts. Mount 4′ above water, 6′ if above ground, higher if it is likely to attract the curious. If above ground, locate near ponds and where vegetation provides cover for ducklings to travel to water. Always protect with 3′ wide cone predator guards around the post, under the box.
Place 3″ to 4″ of wood chips (not saw dust) in the boxes.
Remove everything from the box and clean well after the brood rearing season is past. Do not mount duck boxes in trees. Not on, under or too close to trees where squirrels can leap on to boxes. Predation from snakes, raccoons and a number of other mammals and birds is a horrible thing. You can prevent this.
Birds | Birdhouses | Plans | Home